Process of knitting neckties and scarfs.



J. KBLLNER 8; S. WORMS.

PROCESS OF KNITTING NEOKTIES AND somrs.

I APPLICATION FILED SEPT. 21, 1912' .1 Q72 856 Patented Sept 9, 1913.

d IIWENTOH J0$EF MEL L/vm A S/DN y Wok/ms" r A )WTORWN 2 q WITNESS sbody of which tie may hek'nitted of several colors to give an iridescenteffect.

locks 8.

JOSEF KELLNER, 0F BROOKLYN, AND SIDNEY RVORM$, OF NEVJ ASSIGNOZRS TOFRANKLIN 0F NEW 303K.

ROCHELLE, NEW YQR-K.

KNITTING MlLLS, OF NEW YORK, N. 36., A COBPOIEATIQN Process or KNITTINGNECKTIES Ann scalars.

To all whomit may 00mm:

Be it known that we, Llo'str lifiennnhn, a subject of the Einp ror ofGermany, and SIDNEY oans, a citizen of the United Qtates, residing,respectively, at Brooklyn, in the county of Kings and State of New York,and New Rochelle, in the county of est Chester and State of New York,have in vented certain iiew and useful Improvements in Processes ofKnittin Neckties and Scarifs. oi" which the following is aspecification. p v

This invention relates to a process of knitting and more particularly tothe knitting of neckties and scarls, the object of the invention beingto provide an iniproved proc or method of ltnitti'ng iiccklies wherebythe tie may have a stripe'or stripes therein 4 located on a true orsubstantially true bias,

and which stripes may he of one or more colors and may be fed or shotthereiuto at intervals, and which necktie inay have a narrow neckportion merging into a gradually widened or l'lari'hg end'or ends andthe of one or In the drawings accompanying and forming part of thisspecification, Figure Lisa cross-sectional viewcf a part of one form offlat knitting machine which may be provided for carrying out thisiniprovedprocess; Figs. 2 and 3 illustrate a portion of the needle beds,one of which is shown, in different positions, Fig. etapair of needlesand Fig. 5 one of the cam-locks for shifting the ne dles; Fig. 6 is asect-ional view of a form of tensioning rneans; and Fig. 7 is a-view ofa necktie illustrating a part thereof having the diagonal stripestherein. I

Similar characters of reference indicate corresponding parts in thedifierent figures of the drawings. I 7 p i or carrying out this process.we provide a flat knittin machine comprising a pair of inclined needlebeds 2 and 3 suitably supported by standards i, one eril of which isshown, and which needle be v sets of needles 5 and Gshiftable in theusual way by a shiftable carriage 7 having cambeat the, iscl aateas is aSaaalole diiierential tension or take u device for Lamas Specificationof Letters Patent s carry two llatented Sept. 9. 1913.

Application ina September 21. 1912. Serial no. 721,650.

giving proper tension to the work as it is knitted. This tension meansin the present instance comprises a roll 9 suitabl mounted upon a shaft,10 and a series of rolls mounted upona shaft 12. iii the presentinstance four of theserolls are shown, one of which. as 13. is locateddirectly upon the shaft while the other three, vide d with a tubularshaft, as 17, or 18 or 19, one located within the other, anrl on theends of these tubular shafts 1T, 18 and it! are located gears 20, 21 and22, and'on the end of the shaft 12 is also fixed a gear 93. these gearsbeing so proportioned that the roll 16 will have the smallest gear whilethe roll 15 will have the next lar est, and so on, so that the greatestspeed wi l be given to the roll 16. For operating these spur. gears astub shaft2 l is provided, which may be driven from any suitable sourceof power and car riesin' the presentiiistance a series of four gears 25,26, 27 and 28 of gradually increasing diameter and tnesliing with thegears 23, 22, 2 and 20 respectively. Thus it will he observed that thegreatest tension will be placed upon that side of the fahric engaged bythe roll 16 by reason of its greater speed. U1. course it will beunderstood that the position of the gears could he changed so that thegreatest tension could be placed upon the opposite side for the purposehere inafter described.

In carrying out this process the knitting is started with a certainwidth in the machine, and by gradually throwing out of operation certainneedles on one side the tie will he tapered on one side, while it isrelativelistraight on the other side until the neckband is reached,which is knitted straight, after which, by eration certain needles onone side, the oppw gradually throwing into opsite end of the tie will hegradually flared on one side and knitted straight on the other, thus toprovide a tie hai'ing'a pair of wide fiowingflaring ends. By usingthreads of different colors an iridescent ctiect niav he given to thetie by reason oi the fact that the tie will have longitudinally thereofal ternate colors or rows of stitches.

At intervals along the tie-stripes are formed by feeding into the tiethreads or another color or colors, and in the prcsrsit instance, bymeans of the present process, these stripes are located on a true bias,and so far as we are aware ithas never been heretofore possible to knitsuch a necktie with stripes located on a true bias. To accomplish thisthe rear needle bed 2 is l,)ro-

'vided with means, which may be automatically operative or operated byhand, for racking it during the knitting of the tie whereby the stripeswill be located on a true bias when the tie is completed. In the presentinstance the rear needle bed 2-is shown racked by hand, and for thispurpose itis provided with a projection having a stud 31 movable in acam groove 32 of a cam 33 mounted on a short shaft 34 carrying a handle35, on the shifting of which the rear needle bed 2 will be racked to theleft as shown in Fig. 2 or to the right as shown in Fig. 3, and byracking the needle bed in the manner shown the positions of the rearneedles are changed with relation to the front needles; that is to say,when the rear needle bed is'racked to the left as shown in Fig. 2 eachrear needle ltl will work opposite its companion front needle but on theleft side thereof, while when the needle bed is racked to the right asshown in Fig. 3 each rear needle 40 will work opposite its companionneedle but on the right side thereof when the shiftable carriagecarrying the cam-locks is shifted across the needle bedto project andreturn the needles in a manner which 15 well understood. This racking ofthe rear-needle bed is to the light, or in the direction shown iii-Fig.3

prior to the carriage moving to the right, or as the carriage is movedto the right but prior to its engagement \vlth the needles to beoperated, and the bed is racked to the left prior to the movement of thecarriage to the left, or during such movement but prior to itsengagement with the needles to be opera-tedf By starting the rackingmovement for instance to the right, the stripes will be located on onebias or in one direction, but by reversing this and starting the rackingmovement to the left when the knitting operation is started the positionof the stripes will-be reversed; that is to' say, in Fig. 7 the stripesare shown with the left hand ends thereof higher than the right handends,-'but, as hereinbefore stated, when the. racking movement isreversed on the starting of the knitting"- operation the right hand endsof the stripes will be located higher than the left hand ends thereof,so that the direction in. which the stripes may run is determined by thedirection of racking movenu'nt which is first given to the bed, eitherto the rigzht or to the left. as the first course of knitting isstarted.if the racking movement is first given in one direction then the tensionupon the work will be upon one side, but if the racking morcwith thehighest ends at the left and therefore the tension is so arranged thatthe greatest tension will be given'upon the left side of the work. Ifthe position of the stripes, however, were reversed in the man nerhereinbefore' stated, then the tension would likewise have to bereversed so that the greatest tension would be given the work upon theright sine.

In Fig. 1 of the drawings shown projected to that position which theyassume when the carriage is moved in the direction of the arrow in Fig.2, while in Fig. 4: the needles are shown projected to the position theyassume when the carriage is moved in the direction of the arrowin Fig.3, and when the needles are in the position shown in Figs. l and 2, whenthe carriage is moving; to the left or in thedireclion of the arrowshown in said Fig. 0 the front bank of needles 41 cast oli' and completestitches while the rear bank to only make loops. While, however, theneedles are out of engagement with the carriage cam-locks the rearneedlel'ied is racked front and rear needles cast oil, con'ipletingtwice, we apprehend, the number of stitches in this stroke as in theprevious one, and when the carriage cam-locks are out of engagement withthe needle butts the 'rear needle bed 2 is racked to the right asin Fig.3. In other words, during the process of knitting, but while thecarriage camlocks are out of engagement with the needle butts the rearneedle bed is first racked in one direction, as to the left, and thenracked in the opposite direction, as to the right.

In knitting" the tie, it is started with a certain width in the machine,as hereinbefore stated, as for instance it is started with the greatest.Width, as at 50, the triangular portion thereof being subsequentlyformed by cutting and over-edging the tie, and by constantly racking orshifting the rear bed first one way and then the other, that isalternately, and by placing the left side of the tie undertension byreason of thetake up mechanism shown the result is the lo,- cation oftrue bias stripes of different color or colors in the manner shown inFig. 7, and by gradually throwing out of operation certain needles onone side the tie will be tapered along one edge while remainingstraightcllont its opposite edge until the narrow neck portion isreached. the edges of which will he knitted in parallelism, after theknitting of which ,neck portion,

the needles are i oreeee ln' gradual throwing: into opention eertinnneedles one edge of the tie will he tapered while the other remainsstraight until ihe opposite end of the tie is provided 5 with. :1flaring portion.

ilie take up or tensien lllfitlllrj is necessary to gi'ii'e tension tothe tie nlong one side thereo'lf'. or otherwise the stitches 0r loops atthat 55: of the nniohine would interfere with one another b reason oftheir loose l therefore the greatest tension on that side where the l0ps would othe r loose, for these loose loops would Hi to hook up on theneedle and prevent the properoperation of the marhine. so thatgli-fltkfl tension is planed upon one siile'of the tie than on theother.

During the knitting of the tie the stripes apperen is are locatednn'nllel' with the top L shown in Fig. (3.

must he the hell ZlS e; ll lie:

,1 pod the ornamental bars are 1n position, and this Wi hout thenecessity of stretching the tie out of shape,

it finished to curl or assume any other position turn that shown in I.

By this improved process we are able to provid, a tie of either one ormore colors, that either llplain or iridescent eli'eet,

hzwino stripes shot thereinto of a different color or colors and whichstripes are intree nine obtained during the r linititngi the {he three-dor he nnnle, and

Wll'l eh tie, in

of one so that there is no tendency of the tie after 'e' ti 'ms to thesides of al n'notl'ie et thereof thnn along the other ZLCli-illTlliiQ tothe direvtion in \VliKll the said nns stripes run.

The process of knitting neekties and scarfs of one or more colorshaving" siili- M J l l l 4 r stanually true inns stripes therein m. n(Illll erent color or rolorsfwlneh consists in first knittin a Wide)Ol'l'lOIl of the tie and gradually Wltlldl'HVlllg certain-i needlesthereby to taper the tie to the neck portion thereef, then knitting thesome with its edges in substantial parallelism, then (1111" ing theknitting of the tie musing the thread loops or stitches of one set ofneedles to be rneli'ed or shifted alternately in oppo site directions tothe sides of the tin-end loops or stitches of another set of needlesthen during such knitting; feeding into the work the thread or threadsoi tlierlili'erent colored stripes to he made, Elllll during theknitting of the tie placing the same under cliflerential tension. 7

4-. The process of knitting neclqties and 5 arts of one or more rolorshaving enlisted tlfllljf true bins stripes therein ot a (lillerent coloror colors, whi h consists in final l nitting :1 wide portion of the lieand gradually Withdrawing certain needles therehy tolnper the tie to theneck poi-lion ll'iereo'l, then liniiting the some with its edges insubstantial parallelism and H11 grznhmll y' throwing into opmntiiiincertain needles to grsulnnlly widen the tie lli' its (lilljz'mil) end ling the knitting of the lie ion sing the ihr loops or stitches of onesill oi needles to-l u racked or shifted alternately in o niosite direetions to the sides of the thread loops or stitches of another set ofneedles then during; sueo. knitting" feeding into the wr'irlz: thethread or threads of the dil'lerent colored stripes to he made andduring llie landing of the tie pinning the same under :1 lensinn greateralong one lhnn along); the other,

o. The process of knitlii which. con in musing the thr nd loo one setofneedles to he first to one side and then to the thread loops or stitchesneedles, then (luring sneh i to the Work at a predete amend or threzulsto T lie then to r1 1 reg intervals (lniing n, into 1e differen eel. 1 i

n o bins stripe,

first to one side and then to the other side higher than the oppositeend thereof, and

an. m

in causing the thread loops or stitches of one set of needles to beracked or shifted of the thread loops or stitches of another set ofneedles, then during such knitting and at regular intervals along theWork feeding into the same a diflerent colored thread or threads to forma substantially true bias stripe, and during the knitting placing theWork under a. tension greater along that side where the ends of thestripes are located the highest.

8. The process of knitting which consists in commencing the knitting ata Wide portion of the article and gradually Withdrawing certain needlesthereby to taper the article to the neck portion thereof, then duringsneh knitting causing the thread loops or stitches of one set of needlesto be racked or shifted alternately in opposite directions to the sidesof the thread loops or stitches oi. another set of needles, then atregular intervals during such knitting feeding into the work a thread orthreads of ditt'erent color or colors to form stripes with one endduring the knitting placing the article under tension greater along thatside thereof where the ends of the stripes are located the highest.

9. The process 01 knitting which consists in commencing the knitting ata Wide portion of the article and gradually Withdrawing certain needlesthereby to taper the article to the neck portion thereof, then knittingthe same with its edges in substantial parallelism and then graduallythrowing into operation certain needles to gradually Widen the oppositeend of the article, then during such knitting causing the thread of oneset of needles to be racked or shifted alternately in oppositedirectionsto the sides of the thread loops or stitches of another set of needles,then at regular intervals during such knitting feeding into the Work athread or threads of a different color or colors to form stripes Withone end thereof higher than the opposite end, and during the knittingplacing the article under tension greater along that side thereof wherethe ends of the stripes are located the highest.

10. he process of knitting which consists in causing the thread loops orstitches of one set 01 needles to be racked or shifted relatively to thethread loops or stitches of another set of needles and during theknitting feeding into the Work at a predeterniincd time a colored threador threads'to torin knitted colored bias Work, and during the knittingplacing the Work under a differential tension.

Signed at New York, N. Y., this 20th of September, 1912.

J OSEF KELLNER. SIDNEY WORMS. Witnesses:

HENRY SCHWARTZ, S. G. SCHWABAoI-I.

